Surfing’s roots lie in premodern Hawaii and Polynesia, where the sport was practiced by both men and women from all social strata from royalty to commoners.
“Despite deep social divisions, the waves are democratic. Rich and poor share the waves all day and into the evening”
When missionaries arrive to Hawaii late 1700’s they ban surfing for being innapropiate- there was “constant intermingling, without any restraint, of persons of both sexes”- basically against the freedom ideology.
In the beginning of the 1900’s surf revives in California, but because of the weight of these first boards (45kgs) , not all were interested. In the 1930s American surfer Tom Blake, made the hollow board, and as surfboards got lighter, the Malibu culture emerged.
More on surf:
- Women didn’t officially start surfing till the ‘70’s.
- People surf waves from glaciers, watch this sick video
- The first official surf contest took place at Corona Del Mar, California in 1928.
- Best surfing spots here
- The most famours surf movie is The Endless Summer (1966). Two californian longboarders follow summer around the world, Africa, Australia, New Zealand and Tahiti.